On the 6th December 2017, I landed in Vietnam and made my way to a hostel in central Hanoi to find my feet and make a rough plan for my 4-week exploration of Vietnam. After a few days exploring the vibrant streets of Hanoi and sailing around the stunning Ha Long Bay (UNESCO site), I embarked on an overnight sleeper bus to the famous rice-terraced slopes of Sapa. I was eager to immerse myself in the country’s rich history and culture and not just stick to the main tourist areas. This had been a large motivator for me when I had booked a 3-day stay with a local ethnic H'mong family in an isolated homestay in the rural hills of Sapa and in which I was confident that I would see an authentic Vietnam.
As I stepped off the bus the following morning into a thick fog and hitched a lift on the back of a local’s moped, I was feeling considerably out of my depth and questioning the wisdom of my decision. A short time later, after weaving our way through dilapidated, potholed roads, I was introduced to my home for the following days. I immediately noticed the large bucket of cooking utensils being licked by a stray dog, the hosepipe pouring water onto them from a nearby stream and a crudely built outhouse toilet standing proud behind it all. To my right stood a partially built house, one entire wall of which consisted of a weighted down tarpaulin, while the entrance was a hole in a wall with some planks propped up against it to stop roaming livestock from entering. Inside, a small fire crackled in the middle of a bare concrete floor and I was directed towards a wooden ladder leading to a netted area where I would sleep.
After depositing my bag, I tried to engage with my hosts a little more only to discover that, whilst being extremely friendly and keen to help in any way, only one spoke even a little English. Furthermore, there was a limited phone connectivity in the hills meaning that online translation apps were not an option. Fortunately, I had already stored some basic phrases on a cheat sheet in my phone notes. I was also extremely aware that, should I need assistance in any way, my nearest contacts were back in the UK meaning that I was largely on my own to sink or swim.
My approach to maximising this opportunity to experience rural Vietnamese culture was to throw myself into every challenge that presented itself. Over the next few days, I hiked for miles through the hills with Mamma Chao, my guide, and eagerly soaked up the stunning landscapes and waterfall vistas revealed to me when the fog and low clouds lifted. I visited various members of my host’s family in the village where I drank the locally brewed rice wine (from reused disposable plastic bottles!). I also enjoyed freshly prepared cuisine made from 'interesting' ingredients bought at local rudimentary market stalls and cooked over the small indoor fires. No Food Standards Agency here but absolutely delicious nevertheless. On my final night, I was invited to attend a H’mong feast in which I was introduced to my host's mother, who also happened to be the village Shaman – a position of great authority and power within the village. The hospitality and warm welcome afforded to me by the locals was second to none.
My experience in Sapa reaffirmed to me that, with the right approach, I could not just survive but also thrive in any situation that I encountered; it also highlighted how important a positive mindset is to the overall outcome. I had learned a huge amount during my stay and experienced a fascinating culture, very different to my own. Whilst money was certainly tighter here, there was a very strong sense of community and mutual support. They helped each other to build their houses (as and when they could afford the materials), care for their children and tend to the crops and livestock. It was a refreshingly different environment which also allowed me a some time for introspection and to assess my own values and priorities. Finally, it taught me that it doesn’t matter what your background is, what language you speak or what preconceived ideas you might hold about a person or place, if you throw yourself into a new environment with a positive and open mindset, you can quickly integrate and thrive.
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